If I ever need suggestions for places to see and things (and I am lacking access to a local authority), I turn to Trip Advisor. While searching for various to-do's in Boston, I came across Michelle Topor's Food Tours of Boston. After reading reviews and looking at her website (and a phone call to my Mom to be sure my Dad would like something like this- non-refundable tickets!), I decided that we'd give it a try.
On Wednesday afternoon, we met at the location described on the instructions. There weren't very many other people around, so I began to wonder if we might be the only people on the tour. Just then, our tour guide walked up and introduced himself. I recognized Jim from the pictures and descriptions of the tour guides on Michelle's website but thought that it might be creepy if I told him I already knew who he was. As it turned out, there were only 2 other people on our tour- a mother and daughter (maybe in-law?) from Virginia.
Jim started our tour by giving us a high-level overview of the history of the area. Before the North End was inhabited by Italians, a number of different immigrant groups lived there. As the immigrants became more affluent and prosperous, they left the area.
Our first stop was at Maria's Pastry Shop. From the outside, it doesn't look like much, but appearances can be deceiving. Maria's is a family business that has been open for 25 years, yet still remains largely unknown. Jim showed us the different types of Italian pastries that are made and what, if any, affiliation they had with religious holidays. Colomba, for example, is bread shaped like a dove that is made at Easter. This sweet cake is eaten for either breakfast or dessert and is topped with almonds and powdered sugar. After Jim explained all of the goods, we were able to taste biscotti (bis means "two" and cotti means "cooked"), marzapan, white torrone, lobster tail, sfogliatelle ("clam shell"), and amaretti. The amaretti is what Americans would refer to as a macaroon--this was definitely my favorite. (Note: I felt badly for the rest of the day for taking my Dad to Mike's Pastries an hour before the tour, since our tour guide pretty much said it was a commercial cop-out. Sorry, Dad!)
A picture of the amaretti cookies- yum!
Jim explaining the significance of the marzipan lambs that are made during Easter. Maria and her sister hand make the ears, legs, etc. of the lambs by hand- only the body comes from a mold.Our next stop was Mercato del Mare, a relatively new (only 2 years old) seafood specialty shop that resembles a European market. They buy and sell local products whenever possible (i.e. sea scallops from Nantucket). You can regularly find halibut, salmon, tuna, calamari, swordfish, red snapper, haddock, and other varieties depending on the season. The owners are known for their home-prepared "heat and eat" meals for young professionals on-the-go.. lobster rolls, clam chowder, lobster bisque, and ready to grill tuna teriyaki.
A view of the case with the freshest seafood on the block
After the seafood market, we went to Polcari's Coffee, a general store specializing in coffee, dried legumes, spices, nuts, and hard to find items, including rose water, pomegranate molasses, and preserved lemons. Walking into this store was like taking a step back in time- even the scale that they use to measure your purchases is over a hundred years old. It is owned and operated by the 3rd generation of the family that started it in 1932. I learned some interesting facts- the difference between real and American cinnamon and how to roast your own coffee beans. I bought some Italian candy, dried kiwi, and dried lavender (it was only $1.99!!).
Sunlight can make even a barrel of nuts look lovely
Love these spice jars- so charming!
Because we had a smaller group, we had the advantage of being able to visit several of the smaller shops that larger tours can't fit inside. The next two stores are great examples.
Monica's Mercato is a small shop that carries all sorts of pastas, meats, cheeses, and other products imported from Italy. Across the street is a sister restaurant, Monica's Trattoria, which is owned by the same family. Fresh pasta is made daily and can be bought from the merchant shop. I'm not one for pasta, but even the lobster ravioli sounded delicious. The owners weren't expecting us, but they made prosciutto and cheese (don't remember what type) sandwiches on the spot. I also learned about the designation "D.O.P." D.O.P. stands for "Denominazione di Origine Protetta" and is literally translated as "Protected Designation of Origin." It is a certificate of authenticity from the Italian government that prevents "impostors" from selling their products, along with the promotion of quality and originality. For example, all Parmigiano-Reggiano cheeses must come from a specific region of Italy.
A picture from Monica's- now you know what I mean when I say small!
Having a local guide you around town definitely provides opportunities that you otherwise would never have known about. Our next stop after Monica's would have been difficult to find, considering it does not have a sign or even a phone number. Albie's is a produce shop that visits the local markets every day and brings back the freshest fruits and vegetables to the North End. Unlike American supermarkets, you are not allowed to handle the produce yourself. When you walk into the store, you simply tell Albie what you would like, and he picks out what he thinks is best. In the spring, look for baby dandelion, fava beans, artichokes, and spring onions.
I just love that there isn't even a sign!
While we were outside of Albie's, Jim brought out some of the more interesting ingredients for us to learn about and try. We tried both fennel root and prickly pear. The prickly pear was my favorite- it tastes like a cross of a watermelon and a raspberry. The seeds are smaller than those found in a watermelon, so you actually eat them instead of spitting them out. If you like raspberry jam with seeds, than this fruit is up your ally.
A prickly pear! Try this 3 times fast: Peter Prangle, the prickly pear picker, picked three perfectly prickly pears.
Here is Jim explaining the difference between a boy and girl eggplant. Unfortunately, the male eggplant is preferred because it has fewer seeds. If you turn an eggplant upside down, you can tell the sex of the fruit by its belly button. Male eggplants have indents, while the females are flat.
The North End neighborhood has some gorgeous architectural details. Some of the town homes you see pictured below held up to 12 families. And if you think about it, a family in the early 20th century wasn't just one or two children. Jim pointed out unique details as we strolled from shop to shop.
The copper contrast is gorgeous- I can't imagine what some of these places are selling for now!
An eagle perched atop a windowsill
Our next stop was at The Wine Bottega. According to Jim, who has traveled and lived all over the globe, this is one of the most beautiful wine shops he's ever been in. This place was huge! Its focus is on discovering and sharing small production, hand-crafted wines. We were able to taste a sip of limoncello, an Italian liquor that is chilled and served in summer months. It is made from simple syrup, lemons, and high-proof vodka that is steeped for 80 days. Not exactly my thing...
This doesn't do the place justice- even the floors were beautiful! You weren't supposed to take pictures, so this one had to be done in secret without a flash. Our last stop was at Salumeria Italiana, a fabulous little find that has been around for over 40 years. They import the cream of the crop from Italy- commercial and artisan pasta, polenta, rice, olive oils, capers, San Marzano DOP tomatoes, and a number of meats and cheeses. Jim also gave us a short lesson in this store. I had no idea that there were different types of balsamic vinegar. You have to read the label to find real balsamic vinegar- the first listed ingredient will always be "grape must." Americans apparently get fooled by marketing ploys that companies use- they simply color/flavor regular vinegar, which is definitely different than the real thing. We also got to taste and learn how to pick out olive oil. If you are a true foodie, you could have spent hours (and lots of money!) in this store alone.
This pasta was colored naturally- I wanted to get some to take to my Mom, but I know that it would not end up intact by the time I got it back to my apartment.
Dad and I in Salumeria Italiana at the end of our tour. You don't actually go that far, but by the end of the tour, we were worn out!
Again, I highly recommend this tour to anyone who's visiting Boston. It was the best way for us to learn about the hidden secrets of Boston's North End (without having lived there for ten years). Thanks for a great tour, Jim!
More to come on Dad's visit to Boston...
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