America's Storm Warriors

While I was in the Cape Cod area, I was sure to check out the beach before heading back to Rhode Island. The Cape Cod National Seashore is featured in two of my books: "1,000 Places to See Before You Die" and "10 Best of Everything: an Ultimate Guide for Travelers." (Some of the entries in the books aren't my cup of tea, but this area has earned the right to be on any traveler's life list.) Henry David Thoreau described the area in the 1800's by saying "A man can stand there and put all America behind him."

Along Cape Cod and other parts of the East Coast, there are old houses that used to serve as Life Saving Stations. The Life-Saving Service was the predecessor to the U.S. Coast Guard (the Life-Saving Service merged with Revenue Cutter Service in 1915 to create the U.S. Coast Guard) and was formed to rescue sailors and passengers from nearby shipwrecks. Stations were classified as life-saving, lifeboats, or houses of refuge. Each manned station was run by a Keeper (manager) that ran a tight ship (no pun intended). On the East Cod, the stations were generally manned from November to April, when shipwrecks were most likely to occur. Below is a short description from the US Life-Saving Service Heritage Association:

"The Keeper and surfmen had a daily rigid schedule that was standard throughout the service. The primary responsibility was to be on constant watch for ships in distress and to keep a record of passing vessels. On clear days, from sunrise to sunset, a surfman on day watch always manned the lookout tower. At night and on foggy days, the men walked beach patrol. They would light coston signal flares to warn off ships straying too close to the shore. While men with small-boat-handling experience were wanted in the service, it took extensive training and continual practice to be able to successfully launch a lifeboat or surfboat in heavy seas and shoot the Lyle Gun to a ship offshore to set up the breeches buoy. Just about every day required some sort of practice to be performed. Along with these practices were cooking, cleaning and maintenance and keeping things in good order. The men took turns serving as the cook."

This Life-Saving Station at Raceway Point was one of the initial nine station in the Cape Cod area. It was built in 1872 but was to Raceway Point in the late 1970's to accommodate more staff. The original building (shown) serves as an education center, but there is a working station less than 1/2 mile from this location.

A boat used to rescue sailors and passengers... It's named Nauset, which is the marsh I kayaked in the same weekend

The Lyle Gun was shot out to the ship like a cannon ball. The metal "bullet" was meant to serve as an anchor to assist in bringing men ashore.

The "Breeches Buoy" was passed back and forth between the boat and land using a rope and pulley system. The man being rescued put his legs through holes in the lining (you can't see these) and wore the life-preserver like a pair of pants.

The entrance to the beach

You have to be careful where you walk. There are lots of protected nesting areas for the piping plover, an endangered series of birds found both in the Great Lakes and along the Atlantic Coast. Their eggs are camouflaged so well you wouldn't know you saw one until you stepped on it. Click here to see piping plover pictures (say that five times fast!).

It was a little breezy and cool... perfect weather for enjoying a quiet day at the beach

Definitely not your typical "beach scene".... there are lots of marsh grasses and reeds

We only saw a handful of people on this part of the beach (most of them were walking with their dog- Izzie would have a blast here). Along with not being the warmest weather, we were at the very last beach at the tip of Cape Cod.

Just in case you're suspicious.... Yes, I was actually here and took these pictures

The water was much colder than what it looks like here

Last but not least, my new favorite picture (and currently my computer background)

It's taken me almost a year to get comfortable with Rhode Island and New England (but mainly RI), but now that I'm ready for some real exploring, it's time for me to pack up and leave (only 7 weeks left of my residency!). My adventurous solo trips have been part of what has made this year so special, and Cape Cod was no exception.

Do What You Love and Love What You Do

During the middle of last week, I decided that I should take advantage of the positive forecast for the weekend and spend some time outside. After a bit of research online, I learned about Maritime Days, a month-long series of events designed to celebrate Cape Cod's rich maritime history. I was especially intrigued by a listing that featured an opportunity to kayak the lower waterways of Nasuet Marsh in the Cape Cod National Seashore led by Dick Hilmer who runs Explore Cape Cod.

Explore the maritime past by paddling Cape Cod’s storied coastal waterways with local science teacher and longtime kayak guide, Dick Hilmer. Kayak instruction is included during these natural history tours. Paddle through sheltered creeks, into bays and marshes, and towards islands rich in cultural history. No experience is necessary. Perfect for novice or experienced paddlers. All equipment is provided including kayak, paddle, life jacket and instruction – just bring a smile and a bottle of water, and $30 per person.

I mean, anyone who says "just bring a smile" has got to be someone I'd get along with pretty easily. I didn't really know what to expect, but I e-mailed the trip coordinator and was surprised when I received a phone call shortly thereafter. As soon as I started talking to Dick on the phone, I knew that this was going to be an amazing experience. (He's one of the few people whose enthusiasm is even contagious over the phone!) (FYI--the title of this blog post is his motto.)

Thanks to my new, handy GPS, I was able to find the location fairly easily. I met Dick and his wife Linda, our kayaking guides, near Eastham, Massachusetts. When I had talked to Dick earlier in the week, it sounded like it was going to be a small group of 6 participants, but I was happy to learn that some additional people had signed up at the last minute. There was a range of age and experience, but most of the other attendees had never kayaked before. I had never been, but it was always something I've wanted to do. When I normally think of kayaking, I think of going down a raging river and wearing a helmet, struggling every foot of the way to keep upright. This was much different.

We were kayaking in Nasuet Marsh, an area that our guides knew very well (they have been doing this for some 12-15 years). Their experience was definitely an advantage- we were able to base our route and timing to go along with the tide and weather. Dick and Linda helped to get us fitted into our boats (my model was called the Avatar!), and after some dry land instruction, we entered the water to do some simple practice before heading out into the water.

Our meeting spot... I guess this would be a public access point to the marsh, but no one else was there.

A close-up of the natural grasses on the mud flats in Nasuet Marsh

A lobster boat headed out to set their traps

Another lobster boat... they travel in pairs (but I'm not exactly sure why)

Part of our kayak group, with two of the friends I made in the tandem (2-person) kayak

A part of land with sand dunes that stretches out into the Cape gave us a place to pull up our kayaks and take a break.

Dick taught us everything you could ever want to know about the area, from wildlife to changes in the tide

The Atlantic Ocean from land...

... and from the sea. I was only 30 yards or so from entering the Atlantic Ocean

After a brief break near the entrance to the Atlantic, we headed to another area of the marsh, where Dick said he had a surprise for us. I was a little confused as to why we were stopping a second time, but I was getting hot and needed to take my jacket off (I didn't dare risk taking it off while kayaking--that is asking to fall into the water). We pulled our boats onto a sandbar, and Linda showed us how to go clamming! I had never seen or done this before- I was amazed at how fast the clams dive down into the ground. You first look for holes in the sand. When you think you've found a fresh hole, you start digging like crazy! (Picture your dog digging dirt in your backyard... Izzie would be a very good clammer.) When you start making your hole, the clam somehow goes deeper into the ground, so you have to chase after them.

Linda giving us instructions on clamming

Well, there's a first time for everything... I decided to dive right in. (I can't believe someone took this picture and actually kept it!)

I caught one on my first try! Guess what I said after I caught it? "I'm as happy as a clam!" (No joke, what a nerd.)

Although these clams are edible, it wasn't safe for us to eat them. When the water temperatures are below 60 degrees, a red algae (I forget the exact name) produce a toxic chemical. This is referred to as the "Red Tide." You can harvest and eat the clams in July and August when the water is warmer. (Too bad I'll be gone by then!) Linda said her favorite way to serve them was steamed with a side of butter.

Our kayaks waiting for us while we clam

The kayak tour stands out as a highlight of my entire year out East. Thanks to Dick and Linda for an amazing experience. If you are going to be in the Cape Cod area, this has to be a must on your list.